How I Sharpen
For most blades you will see me using a thick red sharpie on the beveled edge. This my seem strange but it allows me to see exactly where I am removing metal and in some cases allows me to find the exact angle of the edge. If you have any questions at all please reach out to me via text or call and I would be happy to talk through my process for your peace of mind.
“Standard” Sharpening
Sharpening Standard inexpensive to moderately priced knives. Utilizing three grit progress starting at 120 then 600 finishing at 1200 grit. I then debur using a scotchbrite wheel and a final hone on a leather belt using green compound for a fine polished edge.
“High End” Sharpening
My Process for “High End” Expensive blades or blades that require a touch more procession to nail the desired performance for the blade. Such as chisels. In this video I sharpen a kitchen utility knife utilizing my Tormek whetstone Machine. I first mark the blade with a sharpie to see where and how much metal I am removing easier. I then dial my guide in for the desired angle, I set my stones grit to a low grit using a special brick. I then begin to sharpen, after I am happy with the edge i set my stone to a finishing grit using my setting stone. I then finish sharpening and debur on a leather wheel on my bucktool 1×30. Cut test clean and send it home.
Serrated Knife Sharpening
My Process for Serrated Knife Sharpening. I start by cutting new serrations in with a diamond wheel on my low speed grinder. I then cut the thick burr off with a 600 grit belt and debur on a felt belt. I finish the process by polishing the edge and removing any remaining burr on a leather wheel and then test the edge on a thin paper.
Broken Tip Repair
In this video I go over how I repair and sharpen a shun paring knife with a broken tip and multiple chips on the blade. I first start with a low grit belt on my 1x30 to work from the spine of the knife down toward the tip to reform and repofile the blade to have a tip once more. After I am happy with the shape I switch to a higher grit belt to smooth off the rough edges I created and make it safe to handle without worry of cutting yourself. I then sharpen the paring knife as normal. Starting with a 120 grit belt to remove all the chips and reset the bevels, after a burr is formed and all chips are removed I switch to a 600 grit belt to create an even sharper edge. I then lay the machine down and using a felt belt on my 1x30 I remove the burr and test the edge on thin magazine paper.